This assignment tests your ability to use simple computer programming language and basic mathematics to understand the physical processes of ocean waves.
To assess some complex interactions between the atmosphere, land surface, and water in sustaining the Earth’s Biophysical Environment
To understand key physical environmental processes and human interaction/ modification
To develop skills in field data collection, numeracy and analysis
To demonstrate skills in science communication, including using the library, writing and critique of literature

Part 1. Create and plot a sine wave
1.1. Sine wave script
[Here, copy and paste the script you created in Matlab that creates, loads, and plots the wave.]
[6 marks]

1.2. Sine wave plot
[Here, insert the plot you made of your wave in Matlab]

[Hint: X and Y axis need labels indicating what is represented and which are the units]

Figure 1. [Insert caption here]
[6 marks]
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Part 2. Sine wave plot interpretation and wave processes
2.1. What is the period of this wave?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.2. Based on the period, what type of ocean wave is this and why?
[Hint: see figure in lecture notes]
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.3. What is the height of this wave?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.4. Label a wave crest and trough in your plot
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.5. What is the frequency of this wave?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.6. What is the estimated deep water wave length for your wave?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.7. What is the celerity for your wave?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.8. What is the steepness of your wave?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.9. At what depth will this wave start to feel the bottom?
[Answer here]
[2 marks]
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2.10. Explain how waves transform as they travel from deep to shallow water?
[Your answer should be around 150-200 words]

[20 marks]
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Part 3. Plotting and interpreting real data

Using data from the Sydney Wave Buoy (Managed by Manly Hydraulics Laboratory; MHL), discuss the general wave climate of Sydney from 1992 – 2010 [25 marks] including (here) your wave plots [25 marks]
[Your answer should be around 100-150 words]

 

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